Monsoon Trek to Raigad Fort.

Raigad Fort in the state of Maharashtra in India is synonymous with the Maratha king Chatrapati Shivaji who made this fort his capital and the seat of the powerful Maratha Empire.Trekking to this historic Fort situated at an altitude of 820 metres(2700 feet) is a pilgrimage for some as well as a tourist discovery for trekkers.As a student of History it suddenly dawned on me that although a hobbyist trekker and a World traveller,strangely, i had yet to trek or visit Raigad fort also called the "Gibralter of the East" by European historians. "Raigad Fort" was the seat of the Maratha Empire and its Capital, founded by Chhatrapati Shivaji(1630 to 1680 A.D). The historical exploits of Chhatrapati Shivaji and the Marathas can be resourced from historical texts and the modern era "Internet" and hence i will only describe my personal sightseeing experiences on our trek to "Raigad Fort" for the benefit of trekkers, tourists and my own memories.
Googling "Treks to Raigad" on the Internet i came across "Prayas Group" which were conducting a trek to Raigad on 18th/19th of August and hence contacted them on the phone, conveniences of 21st century communication.

On the "Tour Bus" with "PRAYAS TREK GROUP".

Spoke to Mr Amol.Karande one of the trek tour organizer and confirmed my participation in the trek group, the cost being Rs 800 which included breakfast, lunch, transport and logistics.Post retirement from the "Merchant Navy" in 2006, outdoor week-end nature tours and treks became a hobby, the same accomplished through the "B.N.H.S(Bombay Natural History Society)".Since "B.N.H.S" does less of "Hill-Fort treks" decided to do the same with some of the private trek groups, ultimately, a confirmed outdoors wanderer.

Mr Amol.Karande and Abhishek.Sawant(Trek  leader).

Saturday(18-8-2012):- Made arrangements for the start of the "Raigad Fort" trek, packed my back-packer bag and excited about visiting a historical edifice studied in school text books.Left my home in Prabhadevi at 2000 hrs and boarded a bus to Dadar station.At Dadar station purchased a "Borivili Return train ticket(Rs 20)" and boarded the "Borivili Slow Train" at approx 2030 hrs.This was the first instance where i was trekking with a totally new trek group as on previous occasions i did know a few of the trekkers and hence not a total stranger as  with "Prayas Trek Group".While on the train Mr Amol.Karande phoned me and gave me directions for the meeting point of trek group members at Borivili station, the rendezvous being outside Borivili station(East) at the 700 Nos bus -stand.Reached Borivili Station at 2115 hrs and made my way towards the 700 Nos bus-stop, the earliest trekker at the meeting point.At approx 2145 noticed three backpackers at the stop and introduced myself to fellow backpackers Mr Abhishek and Mr Alister, happy to be in the trek group.At approx 2000 hrs two of the main organizers Mr Abhishek.Sawant and Mr Manoj.Sawant arrived at the "700 Bus-stop" as did most of the rest of the trekkers.After a brief familiarization, from a bunch of total strangers from different age-groups, professions and sexes we all became mutual trekkers and acquaintances.They had written down my name as "Rudolph Uncle" as i was the oldest member of the trek group consisting of teenagers, parents and young couples. We all boarded the "Tata tourist bus" and bizarrely the Mumbai monsoons suddenly erupted, raining heavily, a sign of the wet monsoon treks we were to experience later at Raigad.The bus finally departed from Borivili Station at approx 2245 hrs, picking a few other co-trekkers en-route, including Mr Amol.Karande whom i met for the first time, the main tour organizer.The entire 30 seater bus was occupied with trekkers, the largest trekking crowd i experienced on my treks since 2006.The distance from Mumbai to Raigad is approximately 180 Kms about 3 1/2 hrs by road , the route being via the Mumbai-Goa highway and later diverting at Mahad towards Pachad village, the main base for the ascent of Raigad Fort. It was a sleepless night on the bus as the young crowd of trekkers led by co-tour organizer Miss Amruta.Koli began their "Anatarakshi contest(Song Contest)", the raining dark night outside filled with a variety of voices as our bus trekked its route towards Raigad fort.

Morning breakfast  at "CHITDARWAZA" before beginning the trek.

Sunday(19-8-2012):- At approx 0430 hrs our bus finally reached "Chitdarwaza", the last motorable stop at the foot of Raigad fort from where all trekkers begin their ascent to the Fort on foot."Chitdarwaza" is approx 2 Kms from Pachad village, besides, akin to the "Rock of Gibralter" the gateway to the Mediterranean sea, a cable-ropeway was built in 1996 to facilitate the transport of tourists and pilgrims to the fort. I have personally visited Giralter twice when employed in the Merchant Navy as a "Marine engineer". In 1983 Gibralter was the first Country that i visited on my first shipping voyage as "5Th Engineer",myself and a few co-shipmates visiting Gibralter mount by "Cable-Ropeway". We saw the famous "Gibraltar Barbary ape", unique only to this small island which has a mythical superstitious legend for Britishers that rule this small strategic island in the midst of Spain.As a World traveller i always have this irritating tendency to reminisce about my travel nostalgia which have some links to the present article that i describe or narrate.It was drizzling heavily in the dark night outside the bus and a few of us ventured into the night with torches, the weather cool and pleasant akin to a hill-station.At 0530 hrs we had a breakfast consisting of "Pohwa and Tea", a typical local Maharashtrian breakfast provided by the only formal restaurant situated at the foot of the steps leading to Raigad Fort. We were a total of 30 trekkers and a few decided to take the "Cable -Ropeway" to the top which began operations at 0800 hrs.The rest of us began our trek at approx 0630 hrs at the break of dawn in heavy drizzle, our trek group guides and leaders being Mr Abhishek.Sawant and Mr Amol.Karande.We were divided into two groups, one group led by Mr Amol.Karande and the other by Mr Abhishek.Sawant. I was in the group led by Mr Abhishek.Sawant which consisted of a few ladies and men, myself being the oldest trekker in the entire group.The sudden bizarre change in weather from moist humid Mumbai to the cool drizzling hill-station weather of Raigad made our ascent very pleasant, akin to a morning walk for seasoned hikers and fitness fanatics.

Monsoon waterfalls on Raigad Fort.

The stairs cut on the hills are broad and spacious akin to walking the steps of a building, only difference, there are a total of approx 1450 steps leading to the peak of Raigad Fort.The entire trek route was covered with morning mist and fog as the first day-light exposed us to the beauty of this amazing natural hill forts surroundings. After approx half an hour of walking we came across a gushing waterfall, the first time i had witnessed such a sight in 2012, a year when Mumbai and in fact the most of India experienced a severe rainfall deficit.Most trekkers went water-happy at this majestic sighting of a waterfall, immersing themselves in the gushing water and clicking photographs.Photography was difficult due to the continuous heavy drizzle, yet we all managed to somehow click photos at the risk of damaging our camera's.It was a continuous ascending walk through huge rock-cut stairways with narrow pathways in-between, a simple trek barring the exhaustion, akin to climbing the stairs of a building rather than taking the lift!The pleasant cold climate and the drizzling rain made the trek comfortable preventing dehydration as is the common cause of fatigue in hot and humid climates.This same simple trek in peak summer would be a trekkers nightmare according to my personal experience of trekking in different climatic conditions and terrain.Further up the mountain we came across the largest gushing waterfall that i witnessed during my entire trekking excursions in the hill-forts of Maharashtra, including Malshej Ghat, famous for its monsoon waterfalls.This waterfall crashed down the mountainside with massive force and volume, passing past the trek pathway into the mountain further below.The force of the flowing water across the narrow trek pathway was dangerous enough to wash away a young child or a feeble person if crossing the stream carelessly.We spent a few minutes at this wonderful waterfall, the young trekkers absolutely delighted and photographing memories for posterity. At approx 0730 hrs we reached "Mahadarwazja", the main entry point to Raigad Fort. Entire Raigad Fort is in ruins and just the massive wall fortifications are intact while entering the Mahadarwaja.In 1818 A.D the Fort was bombarded and destroyed by the British East India company and today just the ruins are visible. There are stairways once you enter the Mahadarwaja. The Mahadarwaja was designed almost 350 years ago and is preserved as it was in its originality, a feat of ancient engineering design with it being invisible to attackers approaching it from outside due to its meandering curved path treks .

Arrival at the "MAHADARWAJA"

It was not possible for elephants, the normal battering rams of warfare to walk across the meandering pathways towards Mahadarwaja and break open the same.It was raining heavily and although our trek was pleasant the same could not be said about the sightseeing of the fort precincts as the fog reduced visibility as well as photography.We walked along the main boundary wall of the fortification and once inside the Mahadarwaja viewed a pair of ancient cannons.

Further away we came across the ancient Shirkai temple, the old edifice hauntingly beautiful in the early morning dense mist and fog.We finally reached the summit of the Fort at approx 0800 hrs, myself absolutely normal despite a sleepless night and the disadvantage of the "Age factor" compared to other co-trekkers, myself being the oldest among the 30 trekkers in the group.Remember the fact that mountain or hill trekking requires peak physical fitness and hence age and body weight plays a crucial factor. We were split into two groups during the trek to the summit, myself being in the group led and guided by Mr Abhishek.Sawant while the first group ahead of us was led and guided by Mr Amol.Karande.When we first reached the hill fort summit we went to the statue of Chatrapati Shivaji seated on his throne which is situated in front of the ruins of the main market.We took turns in posing for photographs in front of this statue,the drizzle having stopped partially and hence photography possible.Toured the Raj Sabha premises of the Fort , an open courtyard which has a statue of Chatrapati Shivaji at the location of the "Royal Throne" where he was corronated as Chatrapati on 6th June 1674.Approach to this courtyard for the common public is through the Nagarkhana Darwaja , a huge door.The Accoustics of this public Durbar(Courtyard) is such that sounds uttered near the throne can be heard at the entrance of the Nagarkhana Darwaja without the aid of any artificial amplification. The "Cable Ropeway" entry/exit point for tourists/visitors into Raigad Fort is situated near the "Meena Darwaja" which was the entry point for ladies of the royal palace.On the right side of "Mena Darwaja" is the "Rani Vasa(Queens Chambers)", ruins of former royal residential palaces. At present just the wall fortifications are intact indicating the massive palatial area of these palaces.After a brief tour of a part of the fort our two groups congregated together and made our way down the fort towards a small village thatched roof house, our residence for lunch and refreshing of clothing.There was a continuous drizzle and occasionally the drizzle stopped for approx 10 to 15 minutes but later reoccurred as a heavy downpour. This was excellent trekking weather, beautiful and scenic akin to a artificial film set but having its own disadvantages regarding sightseeing the surrounding hills and plains from the peak of Raigad Fort. On a clear sunny day, "Balekilla" is a spot on Raigad from where a tourist can get a beautiful view of the sahyadris which includes the surrounding forts of Purandar, Vichitragad, Rayreshwar, Lohgad, Visapur, Tikona and Sinhagad as also Bhatgar lake . Hence for sightseeing, the summer months are the best months to visit the fort.our sightseeing was restricted to the historical edifices and monuments located on the Fort premises.After a warm cup of tea we left the village house and made our way towards the other end of the Fort heading towards Chatrapati Shivaji's Samadhi.Passed through the "Market Place", a huge sprawling corridor with individual ruins of trading posts on either side. The boundary markings of thick walls being the only remnants, akin to a building under foundation construction.Walking further down the "Market-Place" came to the most revered location in the Fort, the Samadhi of Chhatrapati Shivaji situated adjacent to the Jagadishwar temple.

Samadhi of Chhatrapati Shivaji on Raigad Fort. Monsoon Mist weather.

we had to remove our footwear before entry into the temple premises and the Samadhi of Chatrapati Shivaji.the Samadhi of Chatrapati Shivaji is intact and well maintained due to the initial efforts of Lokmanya Bal Gangadhar Tilak. A few metres away from the samadhi erected on a pedestal is the statue of Chatrapati Shivaji's dog Wagya. After touring the Samadhi we made our way towards one of the most frightening and dangerous spots on Raigad fort, a point known as "Takmak Tok(Execution Point)".

View  of  steep fall from "TAKMAK TOK" 

The walk to "Takmak Tok" was another small trek in itself, the route meandering its way across a steep descent and narrow path leading to a dead-end on this mountain Fort.The uniqueness of Raigad Fort is that although just a small hill in height it is an impenetrable fortress with total steep dead ends on three sides of its cliffs. The entry to Raigad Fort is through a single point , the "Mahadarwaja", the common route that we all use, the stairs pathway to the fort.As we wound our way towards "Takmak Tok" we came across a group of Rapellers rappelling along the face of the steep cliff onto a ledge below, a sport and hobby definitely not for the faint-hearted. When.When i reached "Takmak Tok" point was just spellbound by the unique beauty of this haunted spot, a location where numerous prisoners, criminals and enemies were hurled down the cliff as punishment during Chhatrapati Shivaji's reign.

"Prayas Trek Group" at Takmak Tok

The wind velocity was tremendous and a lightweight could also be blown over the edge of the cliff, an adrenalin junkies perfect tourist site.Sitting on "Takmak Tok" and looking below i could view the entire Konkan plains below, occasionally visible when the dense monsoon clouds and high velocity winds blew away across the valley.The rainfall had stopped for a brief moment during our viewing of "Takmak Tok" and hence the clouds occasionally cleared below us, giving a indescribably clear view of the entire green plains below at sea-level.Thanks to the internet, i always research my tour destinations and locations before visiting the same, a self-taught tourist/blogger. The photos of "Takmak Tok" on the internet have all been on a clear day showing the deep ground at sea level unlike the invisible ground in staggered real life images that we personally witnessed due to the cloud and fog formation. This view of "Takmak Tok" will be one of the everlasting scenic imprints in my personal memory, both , for its frightening scenic beauty as well as its unique structure.From Takmak Tok we trekked back to our village residence, sightseeing a perrineal pond in the distance the same sometimes becoming invisible due to the sudden formation of clouds and fog.

Lunch was at approx 1300 hrs and we formed two groups of 15 each for having lunch since the plates and accommodation for 30 trekkers was not possible in this small village residence.Lunch was typical Maharashtrian vegetarian cuisine consisting of Bhakri(Rice chappatis) with vegetable curry, pappad, pickles and rice.One of my prime hobbies along with trekking and outdoors is eating good food and honestly, i relished the very simple Maharashtrian vegetarian food although personally a hard-core non-vegetarian.Both the groups finished lunch by approx 1400 hrs and we all finally packed our bags, took group photos and departed from the village residence at approx 1430 hrs.

View of valley from "Raigad Fort".in the dense rain mist.

The trek back to base was simple and non-exhausting although it places a huge stress on the knee-caps and calf-muscles due to the impact while descending high -footed steps.While descending i came across a bizarre sight of a young man carrying another man on his shoulders and climbing up the stairs towards the Fort chanting homages to Chatrapati Shivaji.One of our young trek members suffered a knee sprain while descending and required medicinal balm, managing to trek back to the base Chitdarwaza. I managed to reach base at approx 1600 hrs, just one and a half hours of descent trekking down the stairs, one of the easiest treks i had accomplished at a very late age in my life."Prayas Group" were professional trekkers and after the trek everyone changed their clothes except me, myself still wearing the moist rain-soaked denim pant.Honestly, i didn't expect a continuous downpour of rainfall at a time when Mumbai and the surrounding areas were experiencing severe shortage of rainfall.This trek made me wiser and in future would always carry a pair of extra clothes, even in hot summer weather where sweating profusely can be as damaging as continuous rainfall.Spotted a few Macaque monkeys near our bus but strangely did not spot any of these monkeys on Raigad Fort.
We finally departed from "Chitdarwaza" for Mumbai at approx 1715 hrs,everyone tired, both old and young.
The journey back home was one of the longest short bus journeys in my entire life.Severe traffic jams made our bus crawl and honestly, a average young cyclist could have reached home earlier by cycling than i did by bus , train and taxi ! "Prayas Group" was based at Borivili and hence the termination point of the bus was Borivili and not Dadar or South Mumbai as was the norm with my previous day and week-end tours with "B.N.H.S group". Finally alighted the bus at Turbhe station at approx 2300 hrs and caught a train to Vashi from Turbhe. At Vashi Station boarded the train to C.S.T station and alighted at Sewri.Boarded a taxi at Sewri station and finally reached home at exactly 2400 hrs. Ultimately a journey averaging 3 1/2 hours by road took me approx 6 1/2 hours on different modes of transport.On reading the news next day realized that the reason for the "traffic Crawl" was Mumbai city receiving its heaviest rainfall of the monsoon's on Sunday(19-8-2012), hence water-logging and its normal aftereffects of traffic jams and train service disruptions.

P.S:- A brief thanks to various internet sites, especially "WIKEPEDIA" from which i have researched the historical facts of the Raigad Fort."History" can never be plagiarized as it is a factual account of chronological events.Thanks to Mr Manoj.Sawant for forwarding some of the photos removed by "Prayas Group" , a few on this blog for re-enacting memories of a wonderful monsoon trek.This is my personal view and narration of the trek to Raigad Fort.